Samstag, 29. September 2012

raf erschnüffeln, die zweite.

Christian Dior established in 1947 and went against the orthodoxy prevalent during the war of a certain, simplified, masculine style. "He embraced the feminine, the complex and the emotional; an idea of freedom from what have gone before", says Raf Simons. "There was an idea of restriction and then a psychological freeing up; the foundation of the house is a reaction to restrictions. I wanted to do that too."  
There is a particular focus on the structured silhouette of the "Bar" jacket, with its historical connotations for the house, together with its hyper-feminine take on tailoring. The "Bar" goes through many permutations, as do the "Ligne A" and the "Ligne H" jackets in the collection; pleats are inserted architecturally, godets flare and give freedom of movement. embroidery and applique appear in bursts. But perhaps what is most significant is the transformation of the jacket into a mini dress. This new jacket-dress, together with the recurring "mini" silhouette are key motifs in the collection. This motif of sexual freedom could be seen as a nod to the line`s introduction in the sixties and merges into the more liberated silhouettes of the other dresses, such as the mini, crushed ball gowns worn casually with shorts, or the play of transparency and solid in the "Ligne A" dresses.   
 aus den kollektionserörterungen zur sommerkollektion 2013 von dior (quelle

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